In a jewellery world often dominated by round brilliant diamonds, the Asscher cut diamond stands out with its refined geometry and timeless sophistication. Known for its square shape, cropped corners, and elegant step-cut facets, the Asscher cut offers a distinctive look that prioritises depth, clarity, and symmetry over intense sparkle.
Unlike brilliant cuts that scatter light in all directions, the Asscher cut creates a dramatic drawing the eye inward through layers of reflective facets. This makes it a perfect choice for those who appreciate architectural beauty, vintage elegance, and understated luxury.
Asscher Cut Diamonds History
The history of Asscher cut diamonds begins in 1902, when Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam created the cut. Inspired by the emerald cut, Joseph refined the design to enhance symmetry and visual depth, resulting in a square diamond with cropped corners and step-cut facets.
The Asscher cut quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s, a time defined by bold geometry, clean lines, and structured design. These diamonds became centrepieces in fine jewellery, particularly engagement rings, admired for their balance and architectural appeal.
The Asscher family is also renowned for cutting the legendary Cullinan diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered. Although the Cullinan was not an Asscher cut, this achievement cemented the family’s reputation as master diamond cutters.
While the Asscher cut declined in popularity during the mid-20th century, it experienced a strong revival in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Today, it is highly valued by collectors, vintage jewellery lovers, and buyers seeking a distinctive alternative to modern brilliant cuts.
The Distinctive Beauty of the Asscher Cut Diamond
The Asscher cut is instantly recognisable due to its unique structure and proportions. It features a square shape with cropped corners, usually with a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. This creates a near-perfect square outline with an octagonal appearance when viewed from above.
The step-cut facets are arranged in parallel rows, producing bold flashes of light rather than glittery sparkle. A high crown and deep pavilion enhance the hall of mirrors effect, giving the diamond exceptional depth and visual intrigue.
Instead of fiery brilliance, the Asscher cut diamond offers a calm, sophisticated glow that highlights clarity and craftsmanship.
Why Choose an Asscher Cut Diamond?
Many buyers choose the Asscher cut for its unique personality and timeless charm.
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It offers strong geometric symmetry and architectural elegance.
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It has a deep connection to vintage and Art Deco jewellery styles.
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The hall of mirrors effect creates unmatched visual depth.
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Its open facets showcase diamond clarity beautifully.
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It delivers bold flashes of light rather than rapid scintillation.
For those who value refinement over sparkle, the Asscher cut is a compelling choice.
Best Setting for Asscher Cut Diamond
Choosing the best setting for an Asscher cut diamond is essential to highlight its structure and beauty. Solitaire settings allow the diamond’s symmetry and depth to take centre stage, while halo settings add brilliance and make the overall look more eye-catching.
Three-stone rings with baguette or step-cut side stones are a popular choice because they match the Asscher’s clean geometry. Bezel settings are also a great option if you want a sleek modern design with extra protection for the corners. Vintage-inspired settings work beautifully too, especially if you want to highlight the cut’s Art Deco character.
Platinum and white gold enhance the diamond’s crisp brilliance, yellow gold adds vintage warmth, and rose gold creates a soft, romantic contrast.
What to Look for in an Asscher Cut Diamond
Understanding what to look for in an Asscher cut diamond is crucial, as this cut reveals quality more clearly than many others. Cut quality is the most important factor, so excellent symmetry and polish are essential to maximise the hall of mirrors effect.
Clarity also matters more in step cuts because inclusions are easier to see. Many buyers aim for VS2 clarity or higher for a clean, eye-visible stone. Colour can be more noticeable as well due to the large open facets, so D to G colour grades are often preferred for a bright white appearance.
Carat weight can sometimes feel misleading because Asscher cut diamonds often appear slightly smaller than round diamonds of the same weight. For that reason, it is always wise to check the millimetre dimensions, not only the carat number.
Asscher vs Princess Cut Diamond
When comparing Asscher vs princess cut diamond, the differences are both visual and stylistic. The Asscher cut is square with cropped corners and step-cut facets, which creates elegance, depth, and a vintage feel. The princess cut is also square, but it uses brilliant-style facets, producing more sparkle and a more modern look.
Asscher cuts emphasise clarity and symmetry, while princess cuts prioritise brilliance and fire. The right choice depends on whether you want refined elegance or high-energy sparkle.
Asscher Cut Jewellery: Timeless Elegance
Asscher cut diamonds work beautifully across many jewellery designs.
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They are popular in engagement rings for buyers who want something distinctive and elegant.
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Eternity bands set with Asscher cuts create a continuous, symmetrical look.
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Pendants highlight the diamond’s depth and clean geometry.
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Earrings, from studs to drops, offer understated sophistication.
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Custom designs often feature Asscher cuts because of their strong architectural structure.
A Statement of Taste and Refinement
An Asscher cut diamond is more than a gemstone. It is a statement of refined taste, history, and craftsmanship. Loved by vintage jewellery enthusiasts and modern minimalists alike, this cut remains one of the most distinctive in fine jewellery.
At Comparethediamond.com, our experts specialise in sourcing Asscher cut diamonds that combine precision cutting, ethical sourcing, and lasting beauty. Whether you are choosing an engagement ring, eternity band, or bespoke piece, the Asscher cut promises timeless elegance and enduring intrigue.